June 5-6, Party like the Russians, Eat like the Chinese, Live like the Tangs

Friday night we celebrated the end of the work week (and our first full week in Hong Kong) in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon – one of Hong Kong’s buzzing dining and nightlife districts. The highlight of the night, beating such tough competition of free Stella Artois, intoxicated baby boomers and 1:30am kebobs at Ebeneezer’s, was the Russian bar we stopped into which featured a vodka-tasting freezer. We eagerly donned the faux fur coats and hats and clambered into the freezer…those Russians know how to throw a good party.

Saturday morning we gathered at our beloved next door neighbor, the You Me You Me Diner, for standard breakfast fare: beef satay with ramen noodles plus toast and an egg. Americans get it all wrong when it comes to the morning meal. We made plans for a group trip to Ngong Ping on Sunday and then went our separate ways for the rest of the day; some went to the nearby beach town of Shek O, Melinda went hiking on “monkey mountain” which is exactly as it sounds (she fed monkeys!), Jessica engaged in a language exchange to practice her Mandarin (one day she’ll take over the world), several journalism students worked on their stories, and I set out for Nan Lian Garden and Chi Lin Nunnery in Diamond Hill, Kowloon.

Nan Lian Garden was built in the ancient style of the Tang dynasty (AD 618-907) and so every hill, rock, body of water, plant and timber structure has been placed according to specific rules and methods. The garden is an oasis in the middle of bustling Kowloon (look for the skyscrapers in the background of photos!) and is offered as a haven for peace and tranquility…another perfect example of Hong Kong’s old and new, tradition and modernity, coexisting in strange but harmonious ways. The concept of Nan Lian is hard to appreciate until you come to experience it. As I leisurely strolled along the garden path, I was transported to a time of classic Chinese culture, architecture and style. The meticulous detail that went into the design of the garden, its structures, and its “personality” was very inspiring. I wound my way past serene waterfalls and koi ponds, exquisite galleries and pagodas, and emerged at the grand Chi Lin Nunnery.

Chi Lin is the largest Buddhist nunnery in Southeast Asia, also constructed in the Tang dynasty architectural style. The nunnery is a huge, elegant complex which features several gardens, pavilions, and galleries containing religious relics. The nunnery’s Hall of Celestial Kings was the most impressive, showcasing huge ornate, golden statues of Buddha and his guardians. Out of respect, we were not allowed to take photos of this hall, so you’ll just have to trust me that it was one of the more remarkable things I have seen. Ever.

After Nan Lian and Chi Lin, I visited the nearby Wong Tai Sin temple, a large Taoist temple dedicated to the very popular god, Wong Tai Sin, who controls the fortunes of gamblers. (Macau, anyone?) Rather than one single temple, WTS is a complex of temples, gardens, halls, and fortune teller and incense vendor stalls. While the architecture was stunning (how could it not be?), Wong Tai Sin was somewhat disappointing. There was a lot of construction around the temple so much of it was closed off, and there were such large crowds of people and though the temple was very large in size, it was not really grand in any other way. It seemed almost circus-like, and I felt a much deeper connection to the more intimate and serene Man Mo temple I visited earlier last week. Next on my list of temples to visit is the 10,000 Buddhas Temple in the New Territories...followed by Emily's church in LA because Mark Wahlberg goes there :)

I'll post pictures of Nan Lian, Chi Lin and Wong Tai Sin soon! Time for bed - Ngong Ping tomorrow!